Monday, January 29, 2018

Fastest Way To Buy A Car

The Fastest Way to Buy a Vehicle


 Depending on how you're going to pay for the vehicle will make a huge difference on how long it takes to buy that car.

Also if you use the Dealer's banks verses your own bank or credit union.

Also what will have a huge impact on the amount of time it takes to buy your next car is if you know what car you want.


Start by doing a Needs Assessment – Finding out exactly what you want and need on your new vehicle, finding the right vehicle that fits you/ your family needs and wants. (You can do this on your own or with the dealer)

Having or Knowing your Allocated Budget – Finding the right vehicle and fitting it comfortably in your budget. The average car cost is now in 2018 is  $33,000 dollars with a payment of $509.      (Should I Buy or Lease)

Picking out the Vehicle – Finding the right vehicle that is right for you and/or your family, color, sunroof, wifi, forward collision alert, etc.

Take the Vehicle for a Ride - You Should Never buy any vehicle without taking it for a test drive. Making sure it is exactly what you want and expected.  (People assume they know how the cars drive, big mistake)

Trading Your Vehicle – Are you going to be trading your vehicle in or selling it yourself? Make sure you have your title or/and your registration with you. Looking online to get a value on your vehicle helps, be sure to print that out and bring it in with you.

Credit or Cash – Knowing your credit and getting a pre-approval from your bank will help you know what kind of interest rate you will qualify for, or even using your bank and just bringing a check in to pay for it.


Buying Extra Coverage – Should you buy extended warranty or a vehicle protection plan? These are decisions you need to consider as well, everyone is different, some people drive more than others, some people keep their vehicles longer than others, you should base your decision off of your personal driving and buying habits. But that is an individual opinion. You should buy gap insurance if you don’t put at least 25% down, You can always ask for a discount. What about interior or exterior protection? I can tell you I would always say No, depending on if your buying a new vehicle or used vehicle, but now with the ceramic appearance protection that can go on the vehicle, I am a big fan of. (my opinion)

The average person spends 40 hours researching their next vehicle they plan on purchasing, most of that is done online in the comfort of their home, or on their mobile device, or on your lunch break at work.

The average time it takes to buy a vehicle at the dealership is 4 hours!

The fastest way to buy a vehicle is to pay cash or have a check from your lender to finalize the deal!

Also it's better to come early in the morning when there is not a lot of people, this could help speed things up really quick.


*Let the Dealer know you have a certain amount of time or you will have to come back to finish the paper work. By doing that you should be in and out of the Dealership within 60 minutes.

I have completed a transaction within 20 minutes before, but only senior sales consultants have the ability to make something like that happen, so if you ask for a senior sales consultant that will speed things up as well usually!

I hope this helps you and answers some of your questions, but please feel free to contact me if I can be of any assistance, or if you need a new vehicle.


Thanks,









Gary Reed
Senior Consultant
513-349-2259 (C)

Tuesday, March 29, 2016

10 Reasons why you should lease a Car

10 Reasons why you should lease a Car.

Hello I am Gary Reed, you probably have heard of me or seen me in the Automotive Social Media Groups, I am always communicating with my fellow Auto Industry folks, where we share information on what's going on in the Auto industry as well as offer advice, and staying up to date. My tagline is #garyknowscars. As an automotive-insider I know how the business works very well. When people find out about my connection with the auto business they ask me two questions;

1) “How do I get a good deal on a car?”

and

2) "Should I lease or should I buy?”

Leasing actually answers both questions.

Leasing almost guarantees you the best deal in today's automotive industry.

Almost everyone would be better off leasing a car because of the way the industry is today - almost no one should buy a car.

Here are ten reasons why you should lease rather than buy:

1) Use it and lose it. A car is a piece of machinery. It is simply a piece of equipment used to get where you want to go. There is no valid reason to own a car, the thing you want to do is simply use it and then get rid of it.
2) Control of cost. With leasing, you are able to control the cost of your usage based on time and distance. By leasing, you can get in and out of a car limited to how much you use it. Those that put high mileage on a car (contrary to popular belief) should lease as the user can exact the cost of usage.
3) Better deals. The deals are almost always better on leases. The way to get the best deal on a car is to work the manufacturer, not the dealer. The dealer doesn’t control the best deals the manufacturers do. When Honda wants to take market shares from Toyota, for example, they will increase the residual of a particular model thereby reducing your monthly cost. I show an example with Infiniti below where Infinity has aggressively set residuals to make them more competitive. To make this work you can’t get emotional about a particular name but look for the best LEASE DEAL.

Almost everyone would be better off leasing because of the way the industry is today.
4) Lease depreciating assets, don’t own them. There is no reason to own a car or anything for that matter when you know it’s going to go down in value. The argument against this is when you lease you will have a payment forever. That's right, and when you own you have payments that are unpredictable. The perfect lease would be 24-36 months (shorter the better) and get out before there are issues not covered by warranty and before models change.
5) The lease agreement protects you against future loss. A lease is like putting a stop on a stock or getting life insurance. The lease protects you from the downside of eroding market conditions. If the future value of the car were to depreciate more than anticipated because of new models, abundant inventories, or a failed economy you are protected against future downside with a lease.
6) Don't believe the fantasy of ownership. Pay to use the car, not for some fantasy of ownership. There is no reason to pay for the future value of the car. You are paying to use a car not for its value in the future.
7) Never worry about selling or trading your car in. At the end of the lease cycle, you simply turn the vehicle in. The dealer will take a report of its condition and as long as there is no damage or excessive wear and tear or mileage you are done with it.
8) Bigger tax deductions. The write off's on leases are almost 6 times larger than ownership. For a business owner who owns a car, the write-off is limited to fifty-four cents for every mile you drive the car for business. So 10,000 miles would equate to $5400 and the interest on the loan. If you leased the same car and used it 100% for business you could write off 100% of the lease payment with no limits.
9) Stay dynamic. Get in and out quicker for less money down and a lower cost per month. Traditionally you can get into leases for less money down and less monthly cost.
10) Leasing is easier and quicker. Because the manufacturer believes that leasing makes for the possibility of renewing a customer on a receptive loyalty program (repetitive purchases) they make everything easier and quicker. And the dealer loves to lease again for the same reasons.

Please feel free to contact me,
CallGaryReed.com
garyknowscars@gmail.com
#garyknowscars

Thursday, November 26, 2015

Going to the Dealership to Test Drive a vehicle(s)

You can’t put it off any longer—a trip to the car dealership is in your near future. But how can you be sure that hunk of metal, plastic, and rubber you’re eyeing is right for you? How can you best acquaint yourself with what will be not only one of your largest investments but also a trusted, long-term companion in your everyday life? A test drive, of course. Making the most of it is a simple matter of common sense, careful observation, and knowing what to look for. Read on for how to prepare yourself for this all-important experience and what to keep track of when taking a new car out for the first time.

Do Your Homework

Don’t wander onto the lot to see what cars are available. By the time you show up at a dealership, you should already know what model(s) you want and what options you are interested in. Do your research ahead of time—our online buyer’s guide is a handy tool—and make the initial trip solely for the purpose of getting behind the wheel. Additionally:

• Drive your potential candidates back-to-back on the same day so you can make a proper comparison.

• Consider bringing a friend along to keep the salesperson occupied and point out things you might overlook.

• Although you should press to take the vehicle home overnight—as many dealers now allow—to get comfortable with it and see if it fits in your garage, at least make an attempt to come back at night to observe how well the headlights perform and how well the interior is illuminated.

Getting Acquainted

Once you’re at the dealership, let the salesperson know you want to drive the vehicle(s) you have in mind and then you’ll be comparing models and prices at other showrooms. Doing this should allow you to better focus on your prospective ride while communicating to the dealer that you’re prepared to take your business elsewhere if an attractive offer can’t be made.

• Because certain options and powertrains can greatly alter the feel of a vehicle, it’s important to drive the particular model and trim level you intend to purchase. If your dealer doesn’t have the powertrain you are looking for, wait, or find one that does. Take your time, and thoroughly go over the car, taking notes and analyzing how the vehicle looks in the metal versus in photographs.

• Although turning the key and mashing the throttle might be your first inclination on a test drive, instead walk around the vehicle and inspect it thoroughly.

• Observe how certain features might become irritating in day-to-day use, such as inadequate storage cubbies and cup holders, as well as a trunk that is difficult to operate or has an opening that is too small or too high. (Are the running boards necessary, or are they just going to dirty your pant leg for more money?)

• The driver’s and front passenger’s doors may be large and easy to open and close, but also examine the ease of entry and exit for rear-seat occupants, including ingress and egress to the third row of seats, if applicable, and how difficult it is to install a child seat.

• Are the rear seats adjustable, comfortable, and sufficient in size, and do they fold down for greater cargo capacity?

• Remember to review the vehicle’s safety features, such as the number of airbags, active-safety electronics, and adjustable seatbelts.

• If children will be riding in the vehicle, bring them along and let them evaluate the separate controls and amenities in the back seat (if they’re old enough to drive themselves—and you’ll actually let them—you probably should get them behind the wheel, too).

• Take note of the vehicle’s fit, finish, and general build quality. Examine certain items that serve as bellwethers for overall craftsmanship, including the quality of the sun visors, glove box, and seat upholstery, as well as the operation of the shifter and how soundly the doors close.

• Find out if the vehicle takes premium or unleaded gasoline—or if it’s a diesel and requires unique maintenance procedures.

• If it’s a convertible, how easy is it to raise and lower the top, and how much storage room is sacrificed when the top is stowed?

• For larger vehicles, you’ll probably want to review towing features and capacities and trailer-hitch type and height, as well as ensure that the proper trailer-electrical connectors are preinstalled at the factory or can be handled by the dealer.

• For pickup trucks, how heavy is the tailgate, and what options are available to improve the usability of the bed?

Going for a Spin

Now you’re ready to climb behind the wheel. Get situated, and take stock of how well the primary controls are laid out. Ergonomics can make or break a good car, and because we spend most of the time inside our vehicles, automakers are putting ever-more effort into differentiating interiors with more style, the latest technologies, and unique layouts.

• Are the primary controls easy to use (is the clutch too hard or the steering too heavy?) and adjustable enough for you and other potential drivers to be comfortable? A telescoping steering wheel and adjustable pedals can be a big benefit in this regard, as driving position is determined by not only the driver’s physique but also things such as the height of the dash and seats, the driver’s distance from the steering wheel—which should be about 12 or more inches—and the ease with which the infotainment system can be operated.

• Are the front seats comfortable and supportive (not too soft or hard)?

• Are there sufficient gauges, readouts, and display screens that are easy to view and operate?

• Don’t forget to check the climate-control system and how effectively it pumps out hot and cold air.

• As electronic gadgets play an increasingly important role in our daily lives, the vehicle’s human-machine interface should be scrutinized. Bring your iPod along to check how good the stereo sounds, along with how easy it is to control the device once it is in sync with the entertainment system.

• Are Bluetooth wireless, Wi-Fi connectivity, and voice activation offered, and how well do they function with your mobile device?

• Is there ample room to conveniently place your gadgets while driving?

• Is the navigation system intuitive to operate and accurate in its directions?

• If the dealership won’t let you borrow the car for the night, tell the salesperson you’ll get a better feel for it if you go out alone, without any distractions. If he insists on coming, make it clear that you want to drive the vehicle on your terms and experience it on multiple road surfaces and at varying speeds—don’t be coerced into a quick jaunt around the dealership on ultra-smooth roads. Here are some additional tips if the dealer questions your motives for wanting to drive the car.

• See if the vehicle has enough power to safely merge with highway traffic and if the brakes have a solid, reassuring feel to their operation—but forget about doing your Sebastian Vettel impression for the salesperson.

• Take several corners to evaluate the vehicle’s composure when abruptly changing direction over rough surfaces as well as how smoothly the transmission operates when driving spiritedly.

• Take the time to learn how to park the vehicle. Can you exit with the doors only partly open? How tight is the turning radius? Is the front end so low it scrapes on parking curbs? How difficult is it to parallel-park?

• Visibility, or lack thereof, is another factor to consider when behind the wheel. High-style sheetmetal often means a higher beltline with small, gun-slit windows and compromised outward visibility. Observe how well you can see out in all directions, particularly through the rear window. Does the vehicle have dangerously large blind spots, and if so, does it have blind-spot monitors for assistance?

• How much road noise protrudes into the cabin? Do the tires drone so much they could lull you to sleep on a long road trip? How much wind noise is there, and does the air buffet and rush into the cabin with the windows open?

Reflect On Your Drive

The salesperson knows the best time to make a deal with you is when you return from a test drive, when the new-car smell is still fresh in your nose. But don’t be swayed. Kindly avoid the salesperson’s attempts to lure you back to his or her desk, and instead go see what the rest of the dealership experience is like. As you’ll eventually have to return for service and/or parts, see how well these departments work with you and what the prices are for basic services. At this time you also should review your prospective vehicle’s maintenance schedule.

• How long are the recommended oil change intervals?

• What are the terms of the warranty, and what parts are covered?

• Is replacing expensive performance parts something you’ll have to deal with while you still own the car? Many cars now come standard with upgraded performance brakes and high-performance or run-flat tires. Although these features may be a critical element to a vehicle’s dynamic personality, they are expensive to replace and might require frequent maintenance. Make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into.

Once you’ve finished the test drive, go through the process with the other vehicles on your list, leaving time afterward to reflect on each vehicle and which one suits you best. Only after this should you return to the showroom and start the buying process. This level of preparation does not guarantee that you’ll love your new car forever, but it is due diligence for a major purchase and will likely make you more confident in your final decision.

Thursday, October 15, 2015

The New Modern Car Buying System


The internet killed the car business. Then, it built it right back up. We live in a world of retail transparency, shopping from the couch, and uber-competitiveness. Shoppers have the ability to get great deals every time they shop for a car and that has translated into a major shift in the way they're sold.

That's not to say that there are no dealers or salespeople out there who still try to mislead people into paying too much or buying the wrong car, but the paradigm that gave the car business a bad name in the 70s and 80s has been shifted to one where the majority of dealers believe in creating an incredible buying experience rather than an aggressive one.

The modern sales process at car dealerships has evolved to assume that the customers are well-prepared with information about the vehicles, their pricing, and the values of their trades. They often come in with an idea of what rate to expect, what discounts are available, and how hot a particular vehicle is. This is important to both the consumer and the dealership because it can streamline the process and make it easier for the transaction itself to go more smoothly.

It isn't just the abundance of information that has shifted the way that cars are sold. Word of mouth has always been important in the industry, but the rise of review sites, social media, and the ability that people have to communicate with the local masses has allowed car dealers to adopt a more favorable stance. They don't just want to sell more cars. They want their customers to be happy with their purchase. The manufacturers are paying more attention to customer satisfaction and they often use these statistics to grade the dealership as a whole. These grades can determine a dealership's standing in their market and can have an effect on their bottom line through favorable allocations and increased profit potential on the back end.

If anyone is getting a "raw deal" in the can business, it's usually the dealership itself. As consumers, we don't blink an eye when buying a couch or a shirt that brings in 50% or more profit to the retailer, but car dealers often struggle to make 4% off of a vehicle sold. I'm not suggesting that they don't make money, but it's not the easiest business to operate in America today.

When you're in the market for a car and you want to put up your defenses, remember that your best defense is information. They aren't out to get you. They just want to do business with you. It's better to go in armed with information and a good attitude rather than falling into the old style of being adversarial and skeptical. They aren't your enemy. You want to buy a vehicle and they want to sell one. Your goals are aligned.

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Best Family Car Tires

After a year of testing and analysis, Consumer Reports has released new car tire ratings on 47 all-season and performance all-season tires models and 21 snow tires. The results? Michelin, Continental, and Pirelli claim top honors for all-season tires, and Michelin and Nokian lead with top-scoring winter/snow tires.
To identify the best tires for your vehicle, consider more than just how the tires rank, but how they perform in the specific areas that matter most to you. Consult our tire buying guide and check the complete tire Ratings.
Michelin Defender tire
Michelin Defender

All-Season Tires

Popular on many cars and minivans, standard all-season tires typically carry a T-speed rating (118 mph). They are designed to provide good grip on dry, wet, and snow covered roads, along with long wear and a smooth quiet ride.
The Michelin Defender is the top-rated all-season tire, with impressive all-weather grip, crisp handling, and very long treadwear. In fact, Consumer Report’s extensive vehicle treadwear test confirms Michelin’s 90,000-mile warranty. However, the Pirelli P4 Four Seasons Plus with the same warranty achieved the highest mileage of any all-season tire tested with a staggering 100,000-mile wear projection. The Pirelli ranked fourth behind the Continental TrueContact and the General Altimax RT43, with all three offering mostly strong all-weather grip. Despite the impressive showing, the Continental and General do have lower estimated tread lifespans.

Performance All-Season Tires

There is a three-way tie for top score between the Continental PureContact, Michelin Premier A/S, and the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus. Continental gets to the top of the heap for its strong performance in dry and wet grip, handling, snow traction and a quiet, comfortable ride. Both the Michelin and Pirelli models share many of the same qualities, along with longer tread life. Performance all-season tires come on many newer cars with speed ratings of H (130) and V (149) mph.

All-Season or Performance All-Season Tires?

Consumer Reports test results show there is a lot of overlap in price and performance between T-, H-, and V-speed rated tires. For example, performance all-season tires generally have better handling than standard all-season tires, but the Michelin Defender all-season tire had the best handling agility of all tires tested. Whether your car takes all-season or performance all-season tires, the good news is there are plenty of choices offering long wear, comfort, and all-weather grip.

Winter Tires

A mountain and snowflake symbol signify that snow tires are designed for severe winter weather and that they meet an industry standard for snow traction. This year we tested a record number for Consumer Reports. The sheer volume of cold-weather models highlights consumers are very interested in the added peace of mind, and traction, that winter tires can deliver over all-season and summer tires. The Michelin X-Ice XI3 and Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 are top rated, but the Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 is a strong performer that offers excellent winter traction.
In all categories, it pays to check the detail ratings to see how tires compare in the performance areas that matter most to you.
You'll find Ratings for these tires, plus those designed for trucks and sports cars, atConsumerReports.org/tires.

Why Tread Life Tire Warranties are next to useless

In making a tire purchase, long tread life is among the most important features sought after by many consumers, yet our real-life treadwear tests have found so much variation between the promise and the reality that it’s impossible to use the stated tread-life to accurately comparison-shop between brands.
For that reason and others, Consumer Reports painstakingly performs vehicle treadwear testing and rates tires for tread-life. And now, we are introducing comparative mileage projections. (See the complete tire Ratings.) Of course, your actual mileage will vary by what, where, and how you drive among many other factors.
Many car tires come with a prorated mileage warranty, also called a tread-life warranty, that is often used as a selling point. Think of that mileage limit, generally somewhere between 30,000 and 100,000 miles, as a figure highly influenced by a marketing department. It may be close to what you get, but in the comparisons we’ve made, it may be way under.
Moreover, if the tire doesn’t live up to the wear promise, you may find that the so-called warranty imposes so many restrictions and conditions that it’s nearly impossible to collect on. It may even be pointless to try, although a diligent and truly determined consumer can sometimes manage it.
Car tires on rack

How It Works

A tread-life warranty is not a money-back guarantee. As with other prorated warranties, what you can collect is only a partial credit. With tires, that credit is usually good only toward the purchase of an` essentially identical tire from the same manufacturer. If you didn’t especially like those tires, and maybe wanted to upgrade to something better, tough luck. Then you get nothing.
The credit for premature wear is calculated as a percentage representing tire life you didn’t get. Let’s say you bought a set of 80,000-mile tires but they were worn out at 60,000 miles. That 20,000-mile shortfall would qualify you for a 25 percent credit off the standard retail price for the replacement. Your credit, though, is applied to the standard retail price, not any discounted price you may find. And tire discounts are very, very common. So, as a practical matter, your credit may be worth nothing.

The Fine Print

Before a retailer will even consider granting a mileage-warranty credit, you have to fulfill some pretty exacting requirements. These may vary, so read the fine print.
  • You have to have kept your original receipt, with your car’s odometer reading at the time of purchase, and whatever warranty papers came with the tires.
  • If there was a recommended tire-rotation interval, say every 5,000 miles, be ready to supply written documentation for each of those services.
  • The wear must also be absolutely even across the tread. If your tires ever got misaligned, or were under- or over-inflated so the wear isn’t quite uniform, there goes the warranty.
  • All this has to happen within a specified time frame, say four or five years.  

The Final Gotcha

You can only recoup something on a prematurely worn-out tire if the tire is truly worn out, with the tread’s wear bars level with the top of the tread. That indicates that you have only 2/32nds of an inch of tread, the legal minimum in most places. The danger is that a tire with that little tread will probably already have lost much of its hydroplaning resistance and snow traction.
We don’t think it’s very smart to drive around on barely-legal tires, especially to save just a few bucks. In fact, we recommend that you shop for tires when you still have 1/8 inch (4/32nds) of tread left. You can measure that with a quarter. Position a quarter in the tread grooves with George’s head pointing down. When you can just see the top of Mr. Washington’s head, that’s 1/8 inch.