Going to the Dealership to Test Drive a vehicle(s)

You can’t put it off any longer—a trip to the car dealership is in your near future. But how can you be sure that hunk of metal, plastic, and rubber you’re eyeing is right for you? How can you best acquaint yourself with what will be not only one of your largest investments but also a trusted, long-term companion in your everyday life? A test drive, of course. Making the most of it is a simple matter of common sense, careful observation, and knowing what to look for. Read on for how to prepare yourself for this all-important experience and what to keep track of when taking a new car out for the first time.

Do Your Homework

Don’t wander onto the lot to see what cars are available. By the time you show up at a dealership, you should already know what model(s) you want and what options you are interested in. Do your research ahead of time—our online buyer’s guide is a handy tool—and make the initial trip solely for the purpose of getting behind the wheel. Additionally:

• Drive your potential candidates back-to-back on the same day so you can make a proper comparison.

• Consider bringing a friend along to keep the salesperson occupied and point out things you might overlook.

• Although you should press to take the vehicle home overnight—as many dealers now allow—to get comfortable with it and see if it fits in your garage, at least make an attempt to come back at night to observe how well the headlights perform and how well the interior is illuminated.

Getting Acquainted

Once you’re at the dealership, let the salesperson know you want to drive the vehicle(s) you have in mind and then you’ll be comparing models and prices at other showrooms. Doing this should allow you to better focus on your prospective ride while communicating to the dealer that you’re prepared to take your business elsewhere if an attractive offer can’t be made.

• Because certain options and powertrains can greatly alter the feel of a vehicle, it’s important to drive the particular model and trim level you intend to purchase. If your dealer doesn’t have the powertrain you are looking for, wait, or find one that does. Take your time, and thoroughly go over the car, taking notes and analyzing how the vehicle looks in the metal versus in photographs.

• Although turning the key and mashing the throttle might be your first inclination on a test drive, instead walk around the vehicle and inspect it thoroughly.

• Observe how certain features might become irritating in day-to-day use, such as inadequate storage cubbies and cup holders, as well as a trunk that is difficult to operate or has an opening that is too small or too high. (Are the running boards necessary, or are they just going to dirty your pant leg for more money?)

• The driver’s and front passenger’s doors may be large and easy to open and close, but also examine the ease of entry and exit for rear-seat occupants, including ingress and egress to the third row of seats, if applicable, and how difficult it is to install a child seat.

• Are the rear seats adjustable, comfortable, and sufficient in size, and do they fold down for greater cargo capacity?

• Remember to review the vehicle’s safety features, such as the number of airbags, active-safety electronics, and adjustable seatbelts.

• If children will be riding in the vehicle, bring them along and let them evaluate the separate controls and amenities in the back seat (if they’re old enough to drive themselves—and you’ll actually let them—you probably should get them behind the wheel, too).

• Take note of the vehicle’s fit, finish, and general build quality. Examine certain items that serve as bellwethers for overall craftsmanship, including the quality of the sun visors, glove box, and seat upholstery, as well as the operation of the shifter and how soundly the doors close.

• Find out if the vehicle takes premium or unleaded gasoline—or if it’s a diesel and requires unique maintenance procedures.

• If it’s a convertible, how easy is it to raise and lower the top, and how much storage room is sacrificed when the top is stowed?

• For larger vehicles, you’ll probably want to review towing features and capacities and trailer-hitch type and height, as well as ensure that the proper trailer-electrical connectors are preinstalled at the factory or can be handled by the dealer.

• For pickup trucks, how heavy is the tailgate, and what options are available to improve the usability of the bed?

Going for a Spin

Now you’re ready to climb behind the wheel. Get situated, and take stock of how well the primary controls are laid out. Ergonomics can make or break a good car, and because we spend most of the time inside our vehicles, automakers are putting ever-more effort into differentiating interiors with more style, the latest technologies, and unique layouts.

• Are the primary controls easy to use (is the clutch too hard or the steering too heavy?) and adjustable enough for you and other potential drivers to be comfortable? A telescoping steering wheel and adjustable pedals can be a big benefit in this regard, as driving position is determined by not only the driver’s physique but also things such as the height of the dash and seats, the driver’s distance from the steering wheel—which should be about 12 or more inches—and the ease with which the infotainment system can be operated.

• Are the front seats comfortable and supportive (not too soft or hard)?

• Are there sufficient gauges, readouts, and display screens that are easy to view and operate?

• Don’t forget to check the climate-control system and how effectively it pumps out hot and cold air.

• As electronic gadgets play an increasingly important role in our daily lives, the vehicle’s human-machine interface should be scrutinized. Bring your iPod along to check how good the stereo sounds, along with how easy it is to control the device once it is in sync with the entertainment system.

• Are Bluetooth wireless, Wi-Fi connectivity, and voice activation offered, and how well do they function with your mobile device?

• Is there ample room to conveniently place your gadgets while driving?

• Is the navigation system intuitive to operate and accurate in its directions?

• If the dealership won’t let you borrow the car for the night, tell the salesperson you’ll get a better feel for it if you go out alone, without any distractions. If he insists on coming, make it clear that you want to drive the vehicle on your terms and experience it on multiple road surfaces and at varying speeds—don’t be coerced into a quick jaunt around the dealership on ultra-smooth roads. Here are some additional tips if the dealer questions your motives for wanting to drive the car.

• See if the vehicle has enough power to safely merge with highway traffic and if the brakes have a solid, reassuring feel to their operation—but forget about doing your Sebastian Vettel impression for the salesperson.

• Take several corners to evaluate the vehicle’s composure when abruptly changing direction over rough surfaces as well as how smoothly the transmission operates when driving spiritedly.

• Take the time to learn how to park the vehicle. Can you exit with the doors only partly open? How tight is the turning radius? Is the front end so low it scrapes on parking curbs? How difficult is it to parallel-park?

• Visibility, or lack thereof, is another factor to consider when behind the wheel. High-style sheetmetal often means a higher beltline with small, gun-slit windows and compromised outward visibility. Observe how well you can see out in all directions, particularly through the rear window. Does the vehicle have dangerously large blind spots, and if so, does it have blind-spot monitors for assistance?

• How much road noise protrudes into the cabin? Do the tires drone so much they could lull you to sleep on a long road trip? How much wind noise is there, and does the air buffet and rush into the cabin with the windows open?

Reflect On Your Drive

The salesperson knows the best time to make a deal with you is when you return from a test drive, when the new-car smell is still fresh in your nose. But don’t be swayed. Kindly avoid the salesperson’s attempts to lure you back to his or her desk, and instead go see what the rest of the dealership experience is like. As you’ll eventually have to return for service and/or parts, see how well these departments work with you and what the prices are for basic services. At this time you also should review your prospective vehicle’s maintenance schedule.

• How long are the recommended oil change intervals?

• What are the terms of the warranty, and what parts are covered?

• Is replacing expensive performance parts something you’ll have to deal with while you still own the car? Many cars now come standard with upgraded performance brakes and high-performance or run-flat tires. Although these features may be a critical element to a vehicle’s dynamic personality, they are expensive to replace and might require frequent maintenance. Make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into.

Once you’ve finished the test drive, go through the process with the other vehicles on your list, leaving time afterward to reflect on each vehicle and which one suits you best. Only after this should you return to the showroom and start the buying process. This level of preparation does not guarantee that you’ll love your new car forever, but it is due diligence for a major purchase and will likely make you more confident in your final decision.

The New Modern Car Buying System

The internet killed the car business. Then, it built it right back up. We live in a world of retail transparency, shopping from the couch, and uber-competitiveness. Shoppers have the ability to get great deals every time they shop for a car and that has translated into a major shift in the way they're sold.

That's not to say that there are no dealers or salespeople out there who still try to mislead people into paying too much or buying the wrong car, but the paradigm that gave the car business a bad name in the 70s and 80s has been shifted to one where the majority of dealers believe in creating an incredible buying experience rather than an aggressive one.

The modern sales process at car dealerships has evolved to assume that the customers are well-prepared with information about the vehicles, their pricing, and the values of their trades. They often come in with an idea of what rate to expect, what discounts are available, and how hot a particular vehicle is. This is important to both the consumer and the dealership because it can streamline the process and make it easier for the transaction itself to go more smoothly.

It isn't just the abundance of information that has shifted the way that cars are sold. Word of mouth has always been important in the industry, but the rise of review sites, social media, and the ability that people have to communicate with the local masses has allowed car dealers to adopt a more favorable stance. They don't just want to sell more cars. They want their customers to be happy with their purchase. The manufacturers are paying more attention to customer satisfaction and they often use these statistics to grade the dealership as a whole. These grades can determine a dealership's standing in their market and can have an effect on their bottom line through favorable allocations and increased profit potential on the back end.

If anyone is getting a "raw deal" in the can business, it's usually the dealership itself. As consumers, we don't blink an eye when buying a couch or a shirt that brings in 50% or more profit to the retailer, but car dealers often struggle to make 4% off of a vehicle sold. I'm not suggesting that they don't make money, but it's not the easiest business to operate in America today.

When you're in the market for a car and you want to put up your defenses, remember that your best defense is information. They aren't out to get you. They just want to do business with you. It's better to go in armed with information and a good attitude rather than falling into the old style of being adversarial and skeptical. They aren't your enemy. You want to buy a vehicle and they want to sell one. Your goals are aligned.

Best Family Car Tires

After a year of testing and analysis, Consumer Reports has released new car tire ratings on 47 all-season and performance all-season tires models and 21 snow tires. The results? Michelin, Continental, and Pirelli claim top honors for all-season tires, and Michelin and Nokian lead with top-scoring winter/snow tires.

To identify the best tires for your vehicle, consider more than just how the tires rank, but how they perform in the specific areas that matter most to you. Consult our tire buying guide and check the complete tire Ratings.

Michelin Defender

All-Season Tires

Popular on many cars and minivans, standard all-season tires typically carry a T-speed rating (118 mph). They are designed to provide good grip on dry, wet, and snow covered roads, along with long wear and a smooth quiet ride.

The Michelin Defender is the top-rated all-season tire, with impressive all-weather grip, crisp handling, and very long treadwear. In fact, Consumer Report’s extensive vehicle treadwear test confirms Michelin’s 90,000-mile warranty. However, the Pirelli P4 Four Seasons Plus with the same warranty achieved the highest mileage of any all-season tire tested with a staggering 100,000-mile wear projection. The Pirelli ranked fourth behind the Continental TrueContact and the General Altimax RT43, with all three offering mostly strong all-weather grip. Despite the impressive showing, the Continental and General do have lower estimated tread lifespans.

Performance All-Season Tires

There is a three-way tie for top score between the Continental PureContact, Michelin Premier A/S, and the Pirelli Cinturato P7 All Season Plus. Continental gets to the top of the heap for its strong performance in dry and wet grip, handling, snow traction and a quiet, comfortable ride. Both the Michelin and Pirelli models share many of the same qualities, along with longer tread life. Performance all-season tires come on many newer cars with speed ratings of H (130) and V (149) mph.

All-Season or Performance All-Season Tires?

Consumer Reports test results show there is a lot of overlap in price and performance between T-, H-, and V-speed rated tires. For example, performance all-season tires generally have better handling than standard all-season tires, but the Michelin Defender all-season tire had the best handling agility of all tires tested. Whether your car takes all-season or performance all-season tires, the good news is there are plenty of choices offering long wear, comfort, and all-weather grip.

Winter Tires

A mountain and snowflake symbol signify that snow tires are designed for severe winter weather and that they meet an industry standard for snow traction. This year we tested a record number for Consumer Reports. The sheer volume of cold-weather models highlights consumers are very interested in the added peace of mind, and traction, that winter tires can deliver over all-season and summer tires. The Michelin X-Ice XI3 and Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 are top rated, but the Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 is a strong performer that offers excellent winter traction.

In all categories, it pays to check the detail ratings to see how tires compare in the performance areas that matter most to you.

You'll find Ratings for these tires, plus those designed for trucks and sports cars, atConsumerReports.org/tires.

Why Tread Life Tire Warranties are next to useless

In making a tire purchase, long tread life is among the most important features sought after by many consumers, yet our real-life treadwear tests have found so much variation between the promise and the reality that it’s impossible to use the stated tread-life to accurately comparison-shop between brands.

For that reason and others, Consumer Reports painstakingly performs vehicle treadwear testing and rates tires for tread-life. And now, we are introducing comparative mileage projections. (See the complete tire Ratings.) Of course, your actual mileage will vary by what, where, and how you drive among many other factors.

Many car tires come with a prorated mileage warranty, also called a tread-life warranty, that is often used as a selling point. Think of that mileage limit, generally somewhere between 30,000 and 100,000 miles, as a figure highly influenced by a marketing department. It may be close to what you get, but in the comparisons we’ve made, it may be way under.

Moreover, if the tire doesn’t live up to the wear promise, you may find that the so-called warranty imposes so many restrictions and conditions that it’s nearly impossible to collect on. It may even be pointless to try, although a diligent and truly determined consumer can sometimes manage it.

Read "The Truth About Tire Treadwear."

How It Works

A tread-life warranty is not a money-back guarantee. As with other prorated warranties, what you can collect is only a partial credit. With tires, that credit is usually good only toward the purchase of an` essentially identical tire from the same manufacturer. If you didn’t especially like those tires, and maybe wanted to upgrade to something better, tough luck. Then you get nothing.

The credit for premature wear is calculated as a percentage representing tire life you didn’t get. Let’s say you bought a set of 80,000-mile tires but they were worn out at 60,000 miles. That 20,000-mile shortfall would qualify you for a 25 percent credit off the standard retail price for the replacement. Your credit, though, is applied to the standard retail price, not any discounted price you may find. And tire discounts are very, very common. So, as a practical matter, your credit may be worth nothing.

The Fine Print

Before a retailer will even consider granting a mileage-warranty credit, you have to fulfill some pretty exacting requirements. These may vary, so read the fine print.

• You have to have kept your original receipt, with your car’s odometer reading at the time of purchase, and whatever warranty papers came with the tires.
• If there was a recommended tire-rotation interval, say every 5,000 miles, be ready to supply written documentation for each of those services.
• The wear must also be absolutely even across the tread. If your tires ever got misaligned, or were under- or over-inflated so the wear isn’t quite uniform, there goes the warranty.
• All this has to happen within a specified time frame, say four or five years.  

The Final Gotcha

You can only recoup something on a prematurely worn-out tire if the tire is truly worn out, with the tread’s wear bars level with the top of the tread. That indicates that you have only 2/32nds of an inch of tread, the legal minimum in most places. The danger is that a tire with that little tread will probably already have lost much of its hydroplaning resistance and snow traction.

We don’t think it’s very smart to drive around on barely-legal tires, especially to save just a few bucks. In fact, we recommend that you shop for tires when you still have 1/8 inch (4/32nds) of tread left. You can measure that with a quarter. Position a quarter in the tread grooves with George’s head pointing down. When you can just see the top of Mr. Washington’s head, that’s 1/8 inch.

BEST NEW CAR DEALS OCT 2015

Best new car deals

Save money on Consumer Reports' recommended cars

Last updated: October 2015

2016 Chevrolet Impala   |  Small cars   |  Sedans   |  SUVs 

A great price isn't necessarily a good deal if the vehicle doesn't measure up, so we help you choose a good car at a good price with monthly list of best new car deals. The featured vehicle highlighted below has an attractive incentive that can save you extra money, and it is recommended by Consumer Reports, as are all models detailed below.

Other trims on the vehicles listed may also present good deals. Although incentives all eventually expire, they are often renewed. Research ratings, reliability, owner satisfaction, and the latest dealer pricing on our car model pages. 

See our full list of this month's best new car deals below. 

Click here to receive an RSS feed with the latest car news and deals.

2016 Chevrolet Impala

One of our top-rated sedans, the Impala is roomy, comfortable, quiet, and enjoyable to drive. It even rides like a luxury sedan, feeling cushy and controlled. Engine choices include a punchy 3.6-liter V6 and an adequate 2.5-liter four-cylinder, both paired with a six-speed automatic. The V6 accelerates and brakes capably, with secure and responsive handling. The full-featured cabin stays very quiet, with a sumptuous backseat and a huge trunk. Controls are intuitive and easy to use, but rear visibility is restricted. Advanced electronic safety features are readily available.  

Model	MSRP	Invoice price	Incentive expiration date	Potential savings below MSRP
2016 Chevrolet Impala 2LTZ	$36,365	$35,121	11/2/2015	5%+

Do you really need a AWD Vehicle?

Do You Really Need AWD in the Snow?

Automakers have long boasted that all-wheel drive is all you need to get your car through winter’s fury. Our exclusive tests tell a different story.

 Forty-one percent of all weather-related car crashes on U.S. roads are due to conditions involving snow, sleet, ice, and slush. That’s pretty sobering when you consider that those conditions usually exist during just a few months of the year. Accidents caused by winter weather result in 150,000 injuries and 2,000 deaths each year, on average, according to a study by the Federal Highway Administration.

Little wonder, then, that car manufacturers trumpet all-wheel drive as a safety shield against inclement conditions. Consumers are inundated with that marketing message, and all-wheel drive is perceived as a must-have for many car buyers. It’s a key reason SUVs are now the top-selling segment of the auto market.

But can all-wheel drive really save you when the weather turns ugly? It provides some benefit, but it may be insufficient to get you through a grueling storm.

All-wheel drive is about getting your car moving from a dead stop—not about braking or steering­—and you should be aware of its limitations.

Through weeks of driving in snowy, unplowed conditions at Consumer Reports’ 327-acre test center in Connecticut, we found that all-wheel drive didn’t aid in braking or in certain cornering situations. Our evaluations conclusively showed that using winter tires matters more than having all-wheel drive in many situations, and that the difference on snow and ice can be significant.

We realize that swapping and storing tires twice per year is a nuisance. And in places where street plowing is thorough, you can probably get by with all-season tires that are in good condition.

All-wheel drive is far better than two-wheel drive when it comes to driving on slick surfaces where you need serious traction to get going, such as a snowy uphill driveway. But our tests found that all-wheel drive by itself won’t help if you’re heading too fast toward a sudden sharp curve on a snowy night.

That’s an important point for people who overestimate the capability of their all-wheel-drive vehicle. We’ve all seen them, zipping past us in blizzards with their illusory cloak of invincibility.

Don’t be one of those guys—unless you want to risk a crash or find yourself stranded far from civilization.

Our test-track observations lead us to advise that using snow tires provides the best grip and assurance for going, stopping, and cornering no matter what you drive: all-wheel drive, front-drive, or rear-drive. And buying winter tires for a front-drive car will cost far less than the several-thousand-dollar premium you’ll pay for all-wheel drive.

Enhancements like electronic stability control—standard on every new car since 2012—also help two-wheel-drive vehicles maintain control, at least up to a point.

Honda CR-V
It took almost 700 feet to stop from 60 mph in the snow on all-season tires.

What did our tests show?

We conducted braking tests in an all-wheel-drive 2015 Honda CR-V, the best-selling compact crossover, with its original all-season tires, then with winter tires. The differences in stopping distances were considerable.

On a different day under different snow conditions, we did braking tests pitting the CR-V against a Toyota Camry, both rolling on new winter tires. The front-drive Camry did just as well as the AWD Honda, both stopping from 60 mph in about 300 feet.

As for handling, we found that some of the all-wheel-drive vehicles in our fleet struggled to stay on course when equipped with all-season tires—even in the hands of our professional drivers. A couple of the vehicles even plowed straight through corners and off the track.

If you live in a place that gets frequent snow storms, an all-wheel-drive vehicle with winter tires will be very capable. And some AWD systems function better than others in terms of helping drivers get traction.  

But most AWD drivers don’t think of adding winter tires. According to our survey of 54,295 subscribers who drove AWD or 4WD vehicles in the snow for more than six days last winter, less than 15 percent equipped their vehicles with winter tires. The rest kept rolling on their all-season tires and took their chances.

At Consumer Reports, we strongly recommend buying four winter tires for whatever vehicle you drive.

See our complete tire buying guide and ratings.

What’s the Difference Among Drive Systems?

There’s a clear distinction between all-wheel drive and four-wheel drive, although the terms are mistakenly used interchangeably. Follow this guide to understand how all of the systems work.

All-Wheel Drive

All-wheel drive is a lighter-duty system used for cars and car-based SUVs. AWD systems operate continuously, and they automatically vary power delivery to the front and rear wheels when needed. Some systems remain in front- or rear-wheel-drive mode until slip is detected, then power is routed to all four wheels. Other systems send power to all four wheels continuously.

Good for: Seamless acceleration in slippery conditions. Needs no driver intervention to engage.

Drawbacks: Can’t improve braking or cornering performance in snow; lacks heavy-towing ability; lacks a low range for slow-crawl situations; fuel economy suffers; and there’s a price premium compared with front-drive cars.

Four-Wheel Drive

This refers to the heavy-duty drivetrain components found in pickup trucks and truck-based SUVs. The truck usually sends power to the rear wheels, and the driver engages four-wheel drive with a dashboard knob or button, which sends power in equal proportion to the front and rear axles. Most current SUVs and some pickups have a permanent or “auto” 4WD mode.

Good for: Grunt work like hauling a boat trailer up a launch ramp. Most systems have a low range and locking differentials for extreme terrain.

Drawbacks: Can’t improve braking or cornering performance in snow; driving in locked 4WD mode on clear roads can damage the driveline; and there’s a wider turning circle in 4WD mode.

Front-Wheel Drive

Used in most cars, minivans, and wagons, front-wheel-drive systems send engine power to the two front wheels. The drive shaft doesn’t extend to the rear of the car, leaving more room for rear-seat and trunk space. Traction control limits wheel spin in certain inclement conditions.

Good for: Good traction in most driving situations. And it doesn’t carry the price premium of all-wheel drive. It’s also better than rear-wheel drive on slippery roads because there’s more weight on the front wheels, which propel and steer the car.

Drawbacks: If the road is too snowy or icy, the front wheels will slip and you’ll be stuck. Winter tires are recommended for snowy conditions.

Rear-Wheel Drive

This system places less demand on the front wheels, freeing them to be used primarily for steering. It’s often used in basic pickups and traditional truck-based SUVs that are designed to handle towing and other chores. Traction control can help improve the performance of those vehicles as well. Rear-wheel drive is also the preferred setup for sports cars and high-performance sedans because of its con­tribution to ideal weight distribution, which aids in handling.
 

Good for: Handling balance and cornering in dry conditions.

Drawbacks: If the road is too snowy or icy, the rear wheels will slip and you’ll get stuck. Rear-drive cars tend to spin out in snowy or icy conditions. Winter tires are recommended.

How to buy your first car

        Owning a car brings fabulous freedom but also tremendous responsibility.

Be ready for significant expenses beyond the purchase price: You’re also on the hook for, fuel, maintenance, repairs, insurance, and taxes. Here we lay out some strategies for getting behind the wheel as painlessly as possible. And remember, because a key element of driving includes sharing the road responsibly, see our guide to teen driving safety. What can you afford?

Establishing a reasonable budget is critical. The money you have available for a down payment and potential for making monthly installments on a loan will determine your car choices. (See our picks for best cars for teens.) As a young driver, you are probably budgeting for college or other educational pursuits, so it is important to work with your parents to set a realistic target. In doing so, consider whether this is a car just to see you through high school or whether it will be your traveling companion through college. That distinction will determine how new and reliable the car must be. No question, the best way to save money is to buy used. By purchasing used, you can buy more car, meaning you could afford, say, a midsized sedan rather than a tiny econobox. A new car loses almost half its value in the first five years, on average but has more than half its useful life left. Letting someone else take the depreciation hit is a smart bet. But try to buy the newest car you can, in order to get the most up-to-date safety features.

As a teenager, financing will be a challenge. Lenders are typically looking for adults with a good credit score, steady employment history, and financial assets, such as a five-figure bank account or a house. In most cases, that will mean a parent will have to act as a co-signer or even take the loan in their own name. A loan is a business agreement based on a lender charging interest for you to borrow money. The lower the interest rate and shorter the loan period, the less extra you pay in finance charges. The best solution may be to borrow from a family member, repaying them a fair interest rate that they would have seen from their savings account. That would save paperwork, keep the money in the family, and hopefully allow payment flexibility. Do your homework With a budget in mind, now comes the fun part: creating a short list of target vehicles. Focus on practical choices—cars that will minimize ownership costs and suit your needs for the next few years. To right-size your costs, resist the temptation to target sporty, luxury, or large vehicles. They can be costly to maintain and insure, and tend not to get good fuel mileage. The last thing you want is to raid your college fund to cover car costs. Instead, look to small sedans and hatchbacks from mainstream brands, or even better, midsized sedans. It can be tempting to lust after a high-horsepower car or one with the latest-and-greatest high-tech features, but be practical. Money may be made from trees, but it sure doesn’t grow on them. The insurance company will penalize a young driver in a sporty car; big engines cost more to fuel and maintain; and gee-whiz features tend to carry reliability risks. Plus, financed new cars will command higher insurance premiums to cover collision protection. It may not be fun to hear this, but simple is best. To reduce the risk of purchasing a trouble-prone vehicle, identify models with a good reliability record before you begin shopping. Consumer Reports collects data on more than a million cars a year to present reliability information covering the past decade. Such data can point you to cars that have been shown to hold up well over time. Reliability is a key factor, as it speaks to potential costs and inconvenience. Read online reviews of the cars you’re considering from both automobile publications and owner forums. Balance the different perspectives against your preferences, and use the feedback to highlight aspects that warrant closer attention. For instance, complaints about the seat comfort or ride quality can be evaluated on a test drive. Your opinions may differ from those held by others. And ultimately, it is you who will live with the car. Inspect and test-drive New cars are presumed to be consistent performers. (For example, each new Honda Civic is expected to drive like any other.) A casual inspection can confirm the car is truly in “new” condition. However, with a used car, every example has led a different life. Some may have been pampered, others abused, potentially by a teenager just like you! The best used cars tend to be owned by a trusted friend or family member who can share details of the car’s history. When shopping used, try to bring a car-savvy adult along . Carefully look the car over inside and out, top to bottom. New or used, always inspect during daylight hours when paint flaws that may indicate repairs or other troubles can be readily spotted. Essentially, you’re looking to ensure the car is in the condition claimed by the seller. For used cars, the real trick is having the car inspected by a professional mechanic. They will usually charge for the service, but it can be money very well spent.

Negotiate like a pro If the car looks good, then it's time to talk numbers. When negotiating a car purchase, it is essential to have an experienced adult to assist. A professional car salesperson knows all sorts of ways to push people into buying just about anything for the highest possible price. That is, after all, their job. As charming as salespeople can be, remember that they aren’t really your friend. Most car shoppers are outmatched during that phase of car buying. (Think of how competitive your grandparents are with video games, and you get the idea.) Rest assured, a first-time buyer doesn’t have a chance when going solo. If you’re buying from a private seller, negotiation is more straightforward. Research online what the current wholesale price is for the car based on its condition, mileage, and location—that is your target. Closer the better, and bonus points are awarded for getting an even better deal. A used-car lot or dealership will focus on the retail price, again easily found online, including on our car model pages. Chances are, they bought the car for much less, taking it as a trade-in or picking it up at a wholesale auction. They need to make a profit, of course, but your attitude should be that their most profitable deal of the day isn’t going to come out of your skin. The goal remains to get as close to the wholesale price as feasible, though in reality, you’ll probably end up in between the two figures. If financing, pre-arrange a loan so that you know what the interest rate and loan term will be. If the dealership can beat what you arranged for yourself, great. If not, then you’re still covered. You can use an online calculator to figure out what your payments would be, based on the expected purchase price and down payment. The salesperson will probably focus on monthly payments, as that enables them to sneak in added profit by stretching out the term of the loan. Monthly payments may look enticingly low but you’ll be paying those for a long, long time. When comparing one loan deal with another, add up the total of all the monthly payments. Because you did your homework, you can focus on the total amount, rather than just the monthly payments. Negotiate one element of the deal at a time, establishing the purchase price, then moving on to discussing financing, if interested. Don’t be talked into extras, such as rust-proofing, fabric protector, or even an extended warranty. They aren’t necessary. You’re smarter than that, as proven by the effort put in to find a good, safe, reliable car. If the seller won’t meet what you would consider a fair price, walk away. Every year, something like 40 million used cars change hands. Rest assured, there are plenty of other cars out there from which to choose. Getting a good deal on the right car can take a lot of patience and persistence but the reward—freedom and mobility—is worth the effort.

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8 step car buying guide

                                             Here is an 8 step car buying guide.

Please feel free to contact me with questions as I would be more than happy to assist you.
GaryKnowsCars@gmail.com

Step 1: Get Approved for a Car Loan
A powerful first step in the car buying process is to get approved for a loan. (If you have decided to lease your new car, things proceed a little differently, so please read "10 Steps to Leasing a New Car.") Getting approved for a loan from a bank, credit union or online lender will show you what interest rate you qualify for. If the interest rate offered is unexpectedly high, you will know that there are problems with your credit history that need to be resolved before you move forward. Getting approved in advance will also mean you can negotiate at the dealership as a cash buyer, which is much easier. You can still accept dealership financing, but getting approved before you even walk into the dealership will be the bargaining chip to get you the best interest rate.

Step 2: Price Your Car and Your Trade-in
Everyone knows that the price of a new car is usually negotiable. But how much of a discount can you expect? Edmunds.com's True Market Value (TMV®) pricing uses actual sales figures to reveal the average price buyers are paying for cars in your area. Edmunds TMV adjusts the price for other factors including incentives, options and color.

Using Edmunds TMV, you can see the price of the car you want to buy, and also the price of your trade-in, if you have one. Choose the make, model and year of the car you want to appraise and follow the prompts. TMV adjusts the new car price for the available incentives. TMV for your used car shows the current market value if you sell it to a private party or trade it in at the dealership.

While TMV already factors in incentives, it is also possible to separately review the latest incentives and rebates available for all new cars. Perhaps you'll find an even better bargain on a new car you had not considered.

Step 3: Locate Your New Car
As you search for your car, keep in mind that the more flexible you can be about options and color, the wider the range of the vehicles you'll find for sale. Being flexible will also give you more leverage to negotiate a better price, since you are not emotionally connected to one specific car.

On the Edmunds.com home page, select the make, model and year of the car you want. You'll then get a page that displays several actual cars for sale in your area, along with Edmunds.com Price Promise® offers. (More about Price Promise in the next step). Click on the link "Find Cars for Sale Near You" in the upper half of the screen. You then will make selections about options and color to get a more complete list of matching cars available for sale. Once you find the exact car you want, the next step will be to contact the dealership.

Step 4: Use Price Promise and Dealership Internet Departments
Now that you are approaching the deal-making phase of the process, here's more about a good pathway for buying a new car: the Edmunds.com Price Promise program. It assures car shoppers a guaranteed, up-front price on a specific car.

Look for Price Promise offers on the car of your choice, print out the certificate on the page and you are ready to go to the dealership to conclude the deal. It's a good idea to call ahead and make sure the car is still available. Here are other tips on how to use Price Promise to buy your next car.

If there's no Price Promise offer on a car you want, shopping through a dealership's Internet department will save you time and money. You can easily communicate with the Internet manager by phone or e-mail.

We know that many people are drawn to the traditional way of car buying: visiting showrooms right off the bat. If you go this route, you should assess the car salesperson who is working with you before moving forward. Ask yourself if you feel comfortable and sense that you can trust this person. If you do feel comfortable, set up a time to test-drive the car if you haven't already done so. (It's a key step in finding the car that's right for you.) Before you head to the dealership, review all your notes and bring them with you.

Step 5: Try Negotiating a Lower Price
Price Promise offers are usually below Edmunds TMV. But if you think you can negotiate an even better deal, you have another option: Request Internet price quotes from at least three local dealers. Take the lowest price, call the other dealerships and say, "If you beat this price, I'll buy it from you." The dealer almost certainly will give you a better price.

Some shoppers find this time-consuming and stressful, so consider whether the potential savings are worth the time and effort. It's good to remember that a good deal isn't just the lowest selling price. It's a combination of the most streamlined, enjoyable shopping experience and the lowest total out-the-door cost.

Step 6: Review New Car Fees and Check Dealer Financing
Besides the cost of the car, you have to pay sales tax, registry fees and a documentation, or "doc" fee. You can estimate these extras using Edmunds' Monthly Loan Payment Calculator. Now ask the Internet sales manager or the dealership's Price Promise contact to supply a breakdown of all the fees, or a "worksheet," which lists the purchase price, the vehicle's invoice and all related fees. Review the figures carefully before signing the sales contract.

Back in Step One, you were pre-approved for financing. But who knows? Maybe you can get an even better interest rate at the dealership. To see if that's possible, you can let the dealership run a credit report and assess what interest rate you qualify for. If it is lower than your pre-approved loan, go for it. If not, you already have a good loan locked in.

If the price, financing and fees look right, it's nearly time to say yes to the deal. But before you do, consider making the sale contingent on having your new car delivered to your home or office. This is a great time saver and allows you to close the deal in a relaxed environment.

Step 7: Sign the Paperwork
This step will take place at your home if you have the dealership deliver the car, or at the dealership if you prefer to pick it up there. Either way, make sure there are no dents or scratches on the body or the wheels. Check that all the equipment is included, such as floor mats, owner's manuals and rear-seat DVD headphones. Your new car should also come with a full tank of gas. If anything is missing or needs repair, ask for a "Due Bill" that puts this in writing.

In cases of home delivery, the salesperson arrives with all the necessary paperwork. If you opt to pick up your car at the dealership, you will sign paperwork in the finance and insurance office, where the finance manager may try to sell you additional items. These typically include extended warranties, fabric protection or additional alarm systems. These extras can often be purchased elsewhere for less. One product that can have real value is an extended auto warranty, which provides peace of mind to many buyers and could save you money in the long run. Remember, though, that its price also is negotiable and you can always buy it later. You can learn more about the products offered by the finance manager in "Negotiating a Dealer's New-Car Add-Ons."

Review the contract carefully and make sure the numbers match the worksheet and that there are no additional charges or fees. A good finance manager will explain each form and what it means. Don't hurry. Buying a car is a serious commitment. And remember, there is no cooling-off period. Once you sign the contract, the car is yours.

Step 8: Take Delivery of Your New Car
You are probably eager to begin driving your new car. But this is an important step: Let the salesperson give you a tour of your new car. This could include showing you how to connect your smartphone to the car'sBluetooth system and learning how to use other important features and safety devices. Yes, you can review all this in the manual later, but it's quite helpful to get a hands-on demonstration. If you don't have time for a complete demonstration when you sign the contract, ask to visit the dealership a week later for this important step.

As you drive away, there is only one more thing to do: Enjoy your new car.