Black Friday Car Shopping

Will you be shopping for a car on Black Friday?  There are some really great deal's out there right now. For the most part all the 2013 model year car's are out and the dealer wants to move the 2012 model s....plus they want to finish the month strong.
I say it's the perfect time to buy a New car.
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Car Leases under $200 dollars

Car Lease Offers for Under $200/month

Buick Verano - $199/month, 24 months, $24699 due at signing

Chevrolet Cruze - $179/month, 36 months, $2329 due at signing

Chevrolet Malibu - $199/month, 36 months, $2479 due at signing

Chrysler 200 Sedan - $199/month, 36 months, $2999 due at signing

Dodge Dart - $199/month, 36 months, $2999 due at signing

Fiat 500 POP - $199/month, 42 months, $0 due at signing

Ford Fiesta (2012) - $189/month, 24 months, $1758 due at signing

Ford Fiesta (2013) - $159/month, 24 months, $1679 due at signing

Ford Focus (2012) - $199/month, 24 months, $2018 due at signing

Ford Focus (2013) - $169/month, 24 months, $1884 due at signing

Ford Fusion - $169/month, 24 months, $2428 due at signing

Ford Explorer - $169/month, 24 months, $3139 due at signing

Honda Accord Sedan - $199/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Honda Civic Sedan - $149/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing, or $200/month, $0 due at signing

Honda Civic Hybrid - $199/month, 36 months, $2799 due at signing

Hyundai Accent (2012) - $169/month, 36 months, $1699 due at signing

Hyundai Accent (2013) - $169/month, 36 months, $1899 due at signing

Hyundai Elantra Touring - $199/month, 36 months, $2199 due at signing

Hyundai Elantra - $179/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Hyundai Elantra Coupe - $189/month, 36 months, $2299 due at signing

Hyundai Elantra GT - $199/month, 36 months, $2499 due at signing

Hyundai Sonata - $199/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Hyundai Veloster (2012) - $179/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Hyundai Veloster (2013) - $179/month, 36 months, $2299 due at signing

Jeep Patriot - $199/month, 39 months, $2499 due at signing

Kia Rio LX (2012) - $169/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Kia Forte LX (2013) - $169/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Kia Forte Koup EX (2013) - $179/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Kia Optima (2013) - $199/month, 39 months, $2399 due at signing

Kia Soul (2013) - $179/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Mazda Mazda3 4-door - $189/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Mazda Mazda3 5-door - $199/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing

Mini Cooper Hardtop - $199/month, 36 months, $2220 due at signing

Mitsubishi Lancer ES - $189/month, 24 months, $2388 due at signing

Mitsubishi Lancer SE - $189/month, 24 months, $2399 due at signing

Mitsubishi Lancer Sportback - $199/month, 24 months, $2398 due at signing

Nissan Versa Hatchback - $189/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Nissan Sentra - $179/month, 39 months, $1999 due at signing

Nissan Altima - $199/month, 24 months, $2599 due at signing

Scion iQ - $99/month, 36 months, $1969 due at signing (expires 1/7/2013)

Scion tC - $189/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing (expires 1/7/2013)

Scion xB - $179/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing (expires 1/7/2013)

Scion xD - $159/month, 36 months, $1999 due at signing (expires 1/7/2013)

Smart Car Pure Coupe - $99/month, 36 months, $1393 due at signing

Smart Car Passion Coupe - $139/month, 36 months, $1433 due at signing

Smart Car Passion Cabriolet - $199/month, 36 months, $1493 due at signing

Subaru Legacy - $199/month, 42 months, $1999 due at signing

Subaru Impreza - $179/month, 42 months, $1979 due at signing

Suzuki Kizashi - $199/month, 42 months, $2498 due at signing

Suzuki SX4 Sedan - $169/month, 42 months, $2924 due at signing

Suzuki SX4 Crossover - $179/month, 42 months, $2830 due at signing

Suzuki Grand Vitara MT - $199/month, 42 months, $3262 due at signing

Toyota Camry SE - $199/month, 24 months, $2839 due at signing

Toyota Corolla LE - $159/month, 39 months, $2558 due at signing

Toyota RAV4 - $189/month, 39 months, $2588 due at signing

Volkswagen Jetta - $189/month, 42 months, $0 due at signing

Lease vs Buy

Buying and Leasing are Different

When you buy, you pay for the entire cost of a vehicle, regardless of how many miles you drive it or how long you keep it. Monthly payments are higher than for leasing. You typically make a down payment, pay sales taxes in cash or roll them into your loan, and pay an interest rate determined by your loan company based on your credit score. You make your first payment a month after you sign your contract. Later, you may decide to sell or trade the vehicle for its depreciated resale or trade value.

When you lease, you pay only a portion of a vehicle's cost, which is the part that you "use up" during the time you're driving it. Leasing is a form of financing and is not the same as renting. You have a choice of not making a down payment, you pay sales tax only on your monthly payments (in most states), and you pay a financial rate, called money factor, that is similar to the interest on a loan. You may also be required to pay fees and possibly a security deposit that you don't pay when you buy. You make your first payment at the time you sign your contract — for the month ahead. At lease-end, you may either return the vehicle, or purchase it for its depreciated resale value. You may be charged a lease-end disposition fee.

Car Consultant

Are you ready to take on a professional car salesmen?  Probably not, allow me to assist you in finding your next vehicle and save you time and money.

Contact us:
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Get the Best Price on your next New Car

What the dealers don't want you to know

The key to getting the lowest price on a new car is to know how much negotiating room you have.
ConsumerCarShopper.com empower you with the information you need to negotiate the best deal on your next car.

We show you:

• The dealer's true cost...the Bottom Line Price
• How much others have paid
• Vehicle price negotiability
• Used car buying, selling and trade-in prices

Dos & Don'ts Car Shopping

Dos & don'ts

What to keep in mind

Don’t negotiate around a monthly payment. This gives a salesperson too much room to manipulate figures to the dealer’s advantage, especially if you have a trade-in or are financing through the dealer. Instead, negotiate one thing at a time. Nail down the final new-car price before discussing the trade-in value or financing terms.

Don’t  buy unnecessary extras, such as corrosion protection, paint sealant, fabric protection, and window etching of the vehicle ID number (VIN). You usually don’t need these services or can get them for less money later. Sometimes, VIN etching is pre-printed on the sales contract. But if you don’t want it, simply cross it out, decline to pay for it, and have them recalculate the total.

Don’t purchase an extended warranty on a car with a good reliability record. In a 2008 CR survey, 65 percent of respondents said they spent much more for the contract than they got back in savings on repairs.

Do bring a calculator if you’re financing to verify that the terms match the amount you’ve agreed to finance. Dealers can pad the monthly payment to add extras into the contract, sometimes without the buyer even knowing he or she has paid for them.

Don’t drive the car home before the financial paperwork is completed. That can result in so-called “yo-yo” or “spot” delivery, when the dealer calls the buyer back, claiming the financing fell through, to get him or her to sign new paperwork at less favorable terms.

Do   be prepared to walk out if the salesperson tries to raise a price you negotiated by e-mail or phone, or if you feel uncomfortable with the negotiations or treatment. Sometimes, your willingness to leave the showroom is your most effective negotiating tool. 

Compare Pricing

Get quotes

Get competing price quotes

One of the most effective ways to get a low price is to have dealers compete for your business. This can be done by e-mailing or calling several in your area or in neighboring towns. Tell them the exact model, trim level, and options you want and ask for their lowest out-the-door price. The more quotes you get, the better. Make sure you’ve done a thorough test drive before initiating negotiations.

You could also go to car-buying websites and submit a request for a dealer quote. But be prepared to be on the contact list for several dealers for a while. Consumer Reports provides free dealer quotes through its Build & Buy service, which is available to subscribers of Consumer Reports magazine or website, ShopSmart subscribers, and buyers of CR’s New Car Price Reports. Benefits with this are that you remain anonymous until you choose a dealer to work with and dealers in the network must maintain a high level of customer satisfaction. Of course, you aren’t obligated to buy a car.

Focus on the price. Don’t discuss trade-in or financing terms at this point. Tell them you are just looking for a competitive price on a new car and will work with the dealer that treats you the best. You can tell them you’d be willing to put down a credit-card deposit over the phone if they can meet your target price; never e-mail your number. Some salespeople will try and get you to come to their showroom to discuss pricing. But many are now savvy enough to work with you electronically, which saves time for both you and them.

Play "match the price." If you want to whittle the price down further, recontact some dealers and ask whether they can beat a competitor’s price. This can be particularly useful if you prefer one dealership, because of location or personal rapport, but another dealer has given you a lower price. If you settle on a price, have the dealer send you a detailed pricing breakdown; you’ll need this when you go to the dealership to close the deal.

Set a target price

The price

Set a target price

Before negotiating with a dealership, you should have an idea of what a good price is for a particular model. This can range from a figure that’s close to the full manufacturer’s suggested retail price for a hot new model to thousands below MSRP for a slow-selling model. 

It helps to know the dealer’s cost. You can estimate this by finding the invoice price and subtracting any dealer rebates or holdbacks from it. The invoice price can be found in printed pricing guides or on car-pricing websites. Some sites also list dealer rebates and holdbacks, but it may take a little searching.Consumer Reports’ New Car Price Reports do the math for you with CR’s Bottom Line Price, which is a good place to begin your negotiations. Try to pay as little above that figure as possible. 

CR’s Price Reports also now show you the average price that buyers are paying for a model.

Red flag

Are the quotes apples to apples? Sometimes the dealer won’t have the exact vehicle you’re looking for and will give you a price on a different version without telling you. If there’s a question, ask for copies of the window sticker.

Your Trade-in

The trade-in

Find your trade-in value

A common dealer tactic is to give you a token discount on a new car, and then make up for it by giving you less for your trade-in. You can avoid this by knowing the value of your current car before you go shopping. This depends on its age, mileage, condition, trim level, options, and your area.

To get an idea of your car’s worth, check its “book value” in printed pricing guides or at used-car-pricing websites, such as Kelley Blue Book and the National Automobile Dealers Association. Focus on the wholesale or trade-in value; the retail value is what you would pay for the car at a dealership.

To help, Consumer Reports offers Used Car Price Reports for $12, which give you the initial value of a model and walk you through the process of adjusting the value according to options, mileage, and condition.

To get a better fix on your car’s worth, check car-buying websites and local classified and dealer ads for models similar to yours. But keep in mind these are asking prices, not what people are paying.

Get an appraisal. If you want a rock-solid figure to use for comparison in your negotiations, take your car to the used-car department of several dealers or used-car lots and ask what they would give you  in a straight-up sale.

Of course, you can always sell the car yourself; you’ll usually get more money than by trading-in, but probably less than the highest asking prices you found. But if you need the money for a down payment, you’ll have to sell your old car before buying a new one. Trading in can also lower the sales tax you’ll pay on the new car.

Watch the details at the Car Dealership

Car Dealerships

Watch the details at the dealership

This can be the most stressful part of the process, because the dealership staff could try to make up for a low price on the new car by making you pay more in other areas. That’s why you need to come in prepared and ready to maintain control.

By the time that you go to the dealership to buy the car, you should have:

• Identified the model, trim level, and options that you want.
• Completed a test drive and walk-around, so you’re familiar with vehicle.
• Been pre-approved for a loan or, if you will be financing through the dealer, know what competitive interest rates are in your area.
• Researched the value of your trade-in, if appropriate.
• Gotten an idea for what a good price is for the vehicle you want.
• Gathered several quotes from various dealers, and settled on one that looks the most promising.